We just got back from our first two days in a field camp just outside of Balikpapan. The first night we spent in a coastal fishing village. All the houses were built on stilts that sat above the water. When we first arrived there we were swarmed by children so fascinated by us. The entire afternoon was spent playing with the kids and exchanging language, my indonesian is slowly coming along. It is a surprisingly easy language to pick up and the all the kids were so patient to teach us. We snuck away from the giggling kids for a moment and wondering into town. We came across a community playing volleyball who insisted that we played with them. I picked this moment to write my first official blog for the ethical expeditions website and you can read it at : ethicalexpeditions.ning.com . I found the time spent with the women playing helped me develop my first feeling of connection with the local women. Although there were no words spoken, there is something to be said regarding sharing sport with something, regardless of your background.
As we were getting ready for bed, a big thunder storm rolled in, so out came the camera's. As we were watching the lightning in the distance, suddenly a huge flash of lightning filled the sky in front of us and the thunder rocked the bridge below our feet. Darwyn was miraculously able to catch the entire event on camera, and got the most amazing picture of lightning that i have ever seeing. he is busy putting a watermark on it, but hopefully soon i will be able to share it with you.
With all our beds set up in a neat line on stan lohta's floor (he is a proboscis monkey researcher from the czech republic) i spent the most of my night staring at the rats that were the size of small cats running across the stilts above my head. We decided that it would be cool to get a sunrise shot, so at 530am out of our sheets we crawl to sit our the bridge to watch the sun slowly lighten the sky.
After a breakfast of rice and tempeh, we loaded up the boats with Budi (a irrawady dolphin researcher and founder of RASI - Rare Aquatic Species of Indonesia) and headed out to the Bay of Balikpapan. The population of dolphins found in the bay have decreased from 200 to 34 over the last 20years. It is quite sad to see all the coal mining, oil refineries and bridge development present on the shoreline and it is so apparent the damages that it is all doing.
After a day on the boat in 42 degree heat, we headed the stan's research station that is located up the Mahakam river. Along the way i was able to see my first mangrove trees. they are the most unbelievable trees that i have ever seen. when the tide is low it gives the appearance that the island are floating.
We moved into the field camp and hung out talking with Stan and the assistant researchers at the station regarding a possibly bridge development project that will devastate the area. The conservation of this area is at a pivoting point where finally the local government is supporting the conservation suggestions but the provincial and federal government are not yet on board. I cannot believe how frustrating it would be being a researcher in this area, where development seems to be the number one priority even though there is so much evidence of the severe global damages that these projects are doing.
Stan said that the number one problem that Borneo is facing is the lack of international researchers. This comment reminded me to when I was at McGill and my biology TA told us all quite blatantly that unless we had a masters in biology we will not be able to find a job in Canada. Yet in Borneo they are desperate for researchers to work in some of the most diverse and unique environment in the world and produce research that could possibly change the fate of this country and our planet.
In the late afternoon, it was time to load up the boats once again and head towards the monkey habitat. About 20min in we got trapped in the most intense torrential downpoor that i have ever experience. It was going to be the intro to my ethical expeditions blog but i decided to change my subject. here it is anyways:
Flashes of light filled the sky and immediately followed the defening roar of the thunder that sent chills through my spine. We sat in the boat tucked away amoung the huge leaves boardering the river, trying the be as little and inconspicuous as possible as the tremedous lightning flashes momentarily brightned the darkneing sky. Just twenty minutes earlier, we had loaded up the boat at Stan Lhota’s research station to head down the river towards the proboscis monkey habitat. The rain began almost instantaneously, and I was very thankful for the last minute hesitation the run back up the station to grab the waterproof boxes just prior to departing. Once again I was reminded of the power and strength of the environment.
We returned to the field camp soaking wet yet very happy. On the way back once the rain had subsidized, we had spotted a family Makak monkeys perched in a tree. We sat silently in the boat and watched as they swung around from tree to tree. My first live monkeys!
Dinner was cooked for us by Stan assistants at the research station. Another meal of rice and steamed vegetables. I definitely think that i will need a break from rice for quite some time once i return home.
We all crawl under the small mosquito exhausted and very giggly. Stan told us some ghost stories about spirits from the borneo rainforest to spook us out before falling asleep. It was another virtually restless night due to the heat and the limited space under the net, but it was nice to hear the sounds of the frogs and other creatures all night rather than cars and loud music.
The following morning we were up before the sun loading up the boats to go and see the monkeys. We were all very excited despite the fact that we were all running on very little sleep. The morning was spent sitting quietly on the boat observing the monkeys up in the trees. What a relaxing, blissful way to start your day! And to think that this is Stan's life everyday is hard to grasp.
After a long boat ride back to Balikpapan, we didnt get back to the hotel until dinner time. Exhausted, we attempted to begin work on our first video blog, but ran into quite a few technical problems and therefor spent four hours frustrated with our computers. To sleep we went and early this morning we were back at work.
I am very lucky to have such an amazing group. Today went very smoothly even though we spent 7am-6pm locked in the small board room working away on our computers trying to get our video uploaded in time for the deadline.
So our first video blog should be up on the ethical expeditions website ! Along with the written blogs. Hope you enjoy the viewing!
Tomorow we are off to Samboja Lestari til next friday working with sun bears, orangutans and reforrestation efforts. I have heard very good things about this place so i cannot wait to get there!
I am sure to have lots of stories upon my return!
Selemat Malam!
xo Nadine
PS. Here is a group shot taken outside our hotel in Balikpapan :)
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